After turning 17 last December I knew learning to drive was definitely something I wanted to do, I was nervous about my first lesson but after meeting my instructor from Drivers Scotland I looked forward to my lessons. I was always kept up to date with my progress and was able to go at my own pace. Stuart was very understanding, encouraging and friendly and made the whole experience an enjoyable one and I would highly recommend this driving school/ instructor to anyone learning to drive. I passed last week – still 17 on my first test – something I would never have been able to achieve without Drivers Scotland.

The driving test: show me, tell me questions – minor controls

Some may say you will not fail the driving test for not knowing the answers to the “show me – tell me” questions, but, failure is possible if you do not answer the questions correctly.
You will incur a driver fault if one or both questions are incorrectly answered and this will count to your maximum allowed 15 Driver Faults, inducing a fail.

The purpose is to see if the candidate (you) has a little working knowledge of the vehicle you are driving, encouraging you to learn about vehicles and maintenance.
For the purpose of this post we are using the Honda Civic, a popular Japanese car on the market.
Many of the controls in the Honda Civic are mirrored in many other Japanse cars such as Toyota and Nissan.

There are 19 questions in total and some of them involve minor controls inside the vehicle.

The questions relating to the inside of the vehicle are set out below, for a full list please read the other post here.

1. ”Show me how you would check that the horn is working”

Sound horn by using the appropriate device

(off road only, turn on ignition if necessary).

2. ”Show me how you would clean the windscreen using the washers and wipers”

Operate control to wash and wipe windscreen (turn on ignition if necessary).

3. ”Show me /explain how you would check that the power assisted steering is working before starting a journey”

Say: “If the steering becomes heavy the system may not be working properly”.
After starting the engine two simple checks can be made. Gentle pressure on the steering wheel should result in a slight but noticeable movement as the system begins to operate. ie pull the steering wheel a couple of inches to the left and start the engine – this will result in the slight, but noticeable movement and mentions at this point “heavy steering, not working! Light steering, working!”
Or preferably, turn the steering wheel as you move off, you will get an immediate indication that the power assistance is working, if it isn’t the steering will be very heavy.

4. ”Show me how you would check that the direction indicators / hazard warning lights are working”

Apply the indicators / hazard warning switch and check all indicators.

5. “Tell me how you would check that the headlights and tail lights are working”

Explain: Operate light switch and then walk around vehicle. It is not necessary for you to walk around the vehicle on test.

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I’ve just passed my test with Drivers Scotland! My driving instructor was amazing! I had two previous instructors, one was lazy and the other totally shouted at me and stopped at the shops during my lessons and everything.
I’ll be putting my instructor up on my Facebook page and totally recommending him to my friends all the time.
My friend Ben recommended Stuart after passing his test with Drivers Scotland as well, first time!
Totally brilliant!!!

(Reproduced with kind permission from Fatema Ali, posted in Qype, Review Date: 4 November 2011)

Taking driving lessons?

If you are taking driving lessons or you’re near you test, or have attempted the driving test and your confidence crumbles around you and your skills just seem to vanish as soon as the examiner sits next you; relax, help is at hand.

Due to some of the antics of the less respectful and more aggressive road users, it’s no surprise that more of us don’t suffer from this debilitating and often confidence-crushing condition, some people develop a real fear of driving or a complete driving phobia.
It’s a big step for any learner driver to take their vehicle onto the open road for the first time.
For many drivers however, this fear stays with them long after the first lesson.

It’s natural to be nervous about driving lessons and the test, some nervousness is of course good. An actor who goes onto the stage with no nervousness will not perform as well as the actor who has that small degree of pressure, which ensures that concentration will be on providing the perfect performance. We may call this adrenalin and we need that surge of adrenalin to spur us on to give the best performance.

You can put an end to your anxiety or panic attacks; take back the freedom you deserve to enjoy, just like the many thousands of people all over the world already have. Taking lessons and passing the driving test is often as much about being calm, relaxed and focused as it is about having great driving skills.

At Drivers Scotland we can use hypnotherapy, hypnosis and NLP with our clients at any stage in their driving career, before, during and after the driving test.

Your brain is your most powerful tool, it can be used positively for your benefit or it can be allowed to work negatively which will rob you of your skills and undermine your confidence when you need it most, meaning your performance may be nowhere near your best.

Hypnotherapy can help you prepare mentally to stay focused and relaxed ahead of the driving test itself. The deep relaxation techniques used in hypnosis can help you to focus and restore your feelings of confidence and self-belief. This provides real help with taking lessons, passing the practical driving test and also alleviating the fears and anxieties after your test

NLP, a process of training your brain to work how you want it to work. By using different techniques and specific language success can be more easily attained. NLP is often referred to the new technology of achievement. It’s used by many sportsmen including Olympic athletes, football and rugby players. The pressure these performers are under means when they use their NLP skills they are able to perform to their maximum potential in their most stressful and achievement orientated environments.

If you are struggling or wonder if NLP or hypnotherapy would help, consult a local therapist and see. The answer may be easier than you think and all hypnotherapy is safe and natural, its history spanning back many thousands of years.

Points to note: Only qualified practitioners should use NLP, hypnosis and hypnotherapy techniques, ask your Drivers Scotland driving instructors about NLP, hypnosis and hypnotherapy.

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The junction presents a plethora of problems to almost any driver of any experience and not just the learner driver.

A junction on driving test is the place where most candidates fail, primarily due to the high amount of activity and the low levels of experience a learner driver has.
It’s also a place that any driver would more than likely experience a collision should it happen.

The traditional junction most people think of is a T Junction.
Other forms exist and we will mention those here.

Side roads
Where the driver is leaving the major road to join a minor road usually on the left or right hand side of the carriageway.
Dressed with only a single dashed white line upon entry into the side road, this shows that it is slightly dangerous and care must be given to road users on the new road, such a pedestrians crossing from one side to the other.

T Junction
Where the minor road meets a major road, and the shape of the junction is in a T shape. The minor road being the vertical line of the T and the major road the horizontal line along the top of the T shape. Priority is given to the new road and assessments must be made in all directions as to the roads safety before emerging.

Y Junction
Where the minor road meets a major road, and the shape of the junction is in a “y”shape. The minor road being the shorter line of the “y” and the major road being the longer line, along the length of the “y” shape. Priority is given to the new road and assessments must be made in all directions as to the roads safety before emerging. This could also be an upside down “y” shape or a back to front “y” shape, the minor road is still the shorter line in this representation.

Crossroads
Where the minor roads meet major roads and the shape of the junction is in a + shape. The road signs, markings and the volume of traffic in a given area, this will dictate which drivers have the priority in the given circumstances. Sometimes traffic lights are used to control the flow of traffic, again dependant on the volume of traffic using the crossroads.

Roundabouts
Formed from crossroads, these types of junction allow priority to be given to one side only. This can make for an easier and safer exit into a new road, again circumstance dependant. Most roundabouts are four lane entrance/exit but multiple entrance/exit roundabouts exist usually requiring traffic lights and “spiral road markings” (spiral roundabouts) to funnel the flow of traffic to the correct destinations.

Sliproads
These junctions are a redesigned version of the city “y” junction and are tailored for higher speeds and better visibility. As the driver approaches the new carriageway the sliproad is longer and straighter, designed like this to allow increased acceleration with increased visibility. Due to the higher speeds of the new road a driver must be able to see further ahead and to the rear.

Box Junction
An area on the road (usually a crossroads although not necessarily) where there is a painted yellow criss-cross grid spanning the centre of the junction area. This is to highlight a necessity to keep this area clear. It is permissible to enter into the box junction if your exit road is clear. The need for this area to be clear is usually due to high volumes of traffic and the need to allow the junctions to flow and clear easily, easing congestion.

Open or Closed Junctions
The term here used by many driving instructors describes the visibility at the junction edge.
A closed junction is a junction with poor visibility to any of the new roads. This restriction of view leads the driver to “peep and creep”. It is necessary to increase the visibility (peep) and emerge slowly (creep) a little at a time to be sure it is safe to emerge. Visibility is usually hindered by parked vehicles, housing, countryside or garden foliage and growth.
An open junction therefore is one that allows the driver to see much greater distances in any direction. This does allow for a quicker emerging from the junction and contributes greatly to traffic movement and flow.

The “GIVE WAY” junction, usually a T or “y” junction, is dressed with thick double dashed white lines spanning the exit side of the minor road to highlight the necessity for care upon emerging. This is to make the driver note that they do not priority upon entering the new road.

The “STOP” junction is dressed with a thick solid white line spanning the exit side of the minor road. The driver has a legal obligation to stop at the line and assess to the roads safety before emerging. A stop junction is usually created where the junction is more dangerous and more care must be taken.

Points to note:
Any junction can present a problem if sufficient observations aren’t taken and/or the driver doesn’t have control of the speed upon arrival, and emerging from the situation.
Without caring for these two critical components the junction will always be a challenge everytime.
More paint = more peril.

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How to deal with skidding

A dictionary definition of skidding is to slide, typically sideways or obliquely, on slippery ground or as a result of stopping or turning too quickly.

Skidding can be induced deliberately; we will not be dealing with that here. Instead we will be discussing the “out of control” experience of skidding and how to deal with it.

Skids are difficult to correct but fortunately are easy to avoid. Preventing a skid could save your life and not necessarily the correction once you are in one. A corrective action can sometimes enable a return to control, however an escape from a severe skid without accident is usually due to luck.

Skids can be caused either by a mechanical defect with a vehicle, a road cause such as leaves or gravel, or by human error. More often than not a skid is caused or aggravated by human error.

Skidding is more likely to occur when there is ice, snow or water on the road. However, it’s important to remember that most skidding is a result of bad driving. A car will only skid if it is not being driven at an appropriate speed or if provoked to do so by aggressive steering, braking or acceleration.

Never ask your vehicle to do more than the grip that’s available.
In poor weather conditions, where grip is compromised you should:
•    Slow down.
•    Increase your stopping distance, so if the vehicle in front stops unexpectedly you have enough space to brake to a stop without skidding.
•    Take extra care when approaching a bend.
•    Be gentle and progressive when steering, accelerating and braking.

Accelerating too hard can also cause skidding. If you accelerate too hard when moving off on a slippery road then the “driving wheels” will spin without moving the car forward. In icy conditions some wheel spin may be inevitable. To minimize the spin try engaging a higher gear, this will mean moving off in perhaps second gear and choosing the next gear up while driving, for example using third where you may still be using second. This will mean applied power to the accelerator will be applied more smoothly. Or avoid driving unless it is absolutely necessary.
If you do find yourself in a skid, remain calm and ease your foot off the gas, and carefully steer in the direction you want the front of the car to go. You must be prepared to turn the steering wheel again and again until the front of the vehicle is travelling in a straight line.

Should the worst happen and the driver is experiencing a skid from heavier braking, the wheels have locked up and the driver will continue onwards with little or no braking effect. The locked wheels will also prevent the driver from steering in any particular desired direction.
It’s important to remember that the “brakes work at their most maximum just before the wheel is locked”. This means if a skid is induced, the driver should release the brake pedal to free the wheels then reapply the brakes less harshly. If your car has ABS fitted then your wheels won’t lock. ABS does not solve all problems when driving on a slippery road.

If a driver brakes firmly (going forwards) the weight of the vehicle will be thrown forward; this will in turn improve the grip of the tyres on the road surface, squashing them in to the road surface in effect. In turn, the rear of the vehicle becomes light and will have a tendency to skid to one side while braking is being applied.

Whichever side the rear of the vehicle is sliding towards, release the cause and the driver will need to steer. If the rear skids towards the left, steer towards the left towards the rear of the vehicle. The driver need only steer to point the front wheels where the driver wishes to go, an over-steer could render more problems. No steering applied will mean if the tyres regain grip with the road surface, the vehicle will travel in the direction the wheels are pointing to. This could be dangerous for other road others.

All skidding can be avoided by reading the roads, anticipating the actions of others and choosing to drive when conditions are safe to do so.
In summary:
•    Excessive acceleration and skidding, release the cause pointing the wheels in the correct direction.
•    Excessive braking and skidding, release the cause and reapply less harshly while pointing the wheels in the correct direction.

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Coordination of Controls

The methods used to move a manual vehicle is relatively simple in its explanation. It is however the feeling and the act of remembering that causes new drivers to trip up with their pedal controlling abilities. We will discuss these issues here.

The gas

The very right hand pedal, squeeze it and the vehicle will go faster. It will also “rev up” the engine if no gear is engaged; or the gear is engaged but the clutch is down. The gas essentially controls a fuel/air mixture to the engine making it generate more power.
Used with the right foot only.

The brakes

Pressing this pedal will slow the vehicle down. It primarily works on all four wheels, mainly at the front with a 60/40 percent front to rear relationship. The reason is simple; more weight goes to the front when braking so stronger braking power is needed. The brakes will always be stronger than the engine, so they will always be able to stop the engine and vehicle for whatever reason. This means that the vehicle will “stall” if you continue to press the brakes without pressing the clutch down at some point.
Used with the right foot only.

The clutch

There are four main reasons for using the clutch.
1. To select any gear.
The driver must press the clutch fully down each to select any gear while moving or stationary. Without the clutch being pressed down it is impossible to select any gear, for example first gear to move off.
2. To move away from a stationary position.
Using the “biting point” to get the vehicle moving, this needs to be smooth and subtle, nothing jerky or uncontrolled.
3. Slow manoeuvring such as parallel parking or reversing around a corner.
Prompting the vehicle with the clutch can make it move from 0-5mph in most diesel vehicles. More clutch up means the vehicle moves faster. This is similar to the moving off from the side of the road although in some petrol model vehicle a little gas may be necessary for manoeuvring
4. To prevent the car from stalling.
As the vehicle comes to a stop with braking, or as it is running out of momentum, or the driver is travelling to slow for a higher gear number; the vehicle will shudder and shake as it struggles to match the low speed for the gear being used at the time, known as “engine labour”. It will be necessary to press the clutch fully down to separate the connection of the engine and its power, to sever the relationship it has with the wheels, mentioned earlier.
Used with the left foot only.

Coordination of the controls

The pedals can be used in the following combinations.
Gas only.
Brake only.
Clutch only.
Clutch and brake.
Clutch and gas.

But not the gas and brake at the same time, there is no need.

To get moving
Firstly, press down the clutch and engage first gear.
Next, press the gas to create the power and maintain the pressure on the pedal, maintaining the power. Smoothly lifting the clutch up now will utilise the connection between the engine and the wheels allowing the power to get from the engine to the wheels, and thus movement occurs. This relationship must happen smoothly.

Changing gear
Once movement is happening and speed is built up, it will be necessary to change the gear to generate more speed. To do this it is necessary to release the gas pedal (or excessive power will be generated, the driver needs no power at gear change moments) and press the clutch fully to select a new gear. Once the new gear is selected the driver must release the clutch smoothly again (always smoothly) and apply the gas pedal again to continue the forward movement. This method can be applied for every gear change.

Slowing and stopping
Using only the brake pedal to slow, the vehicle will come to a stop. While stopping in gear it will be necessary to press the clutch or the vehicle will stall, eventually. As the vehicle is coming to a stop, pressing the clutch at the distance of two to three hazard (white) lines, or two or three car lengths before its final stopped position will mean the driver avoids the stalling the engine. This simple reference can also be used when pulling over to the side of the road, or stopping in behind stopped vehicles in a queue of traffic. When negotiating a T junction, pressing the clutch at the third white line before the junction edge will prevent the stall, allow a change of gear, and the opportunity to find the biting point as the driver slowly approaches the T junction edges.

Slow moving manoeuvring
This subject differs between petrol and diesel engines. In petrol engines it will be necessary (perhaps) to apply a little gas to generate that little power, and similar to the “To get moving” mentioned above, releasing the clutch to certain places within the “biting point” will allow the car to move small amounts.
In diesel engines, there is sufficient power in the engine already to allow the driver just to use the clutch carefully to move the vehicle from zero to five mph. Once a little momentum has been generated, applying the gas from there will make the vehicle move more

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Mirrors, Signal, Manoeuvre

This is the most useful and fundamental routine any driver should be using on the road. When teaching learners to drive and pass the driving test. This key routine “mirrors, signal, manoeuvre” will be looked for by examiners and other drivers alike. Without this simple routine passing the driving test will be virtually impossible.

Mirrors
It is necessary to appreciate that every action a driver makes affects another road user, period.
Next, it’s important to understand that as a vehicle driver of any kind, you must not cause another driver to change speed or direction unnecessarily. To do so is an inconvenience and potentially dangerous; it is unlikely you will know what other drivers are thinking or doing inside their vehicle at that time, and of course you cannot account for what may be a random movement by another.

When teaching, and learning to drive it will be necessary to know a basic understanding; “before doing anything different from your present actions, check the mirrors first”.
When travelling forwards, our vision is forward-looking and the perception (with practice) will be highly accurate. If, as a driver you were to suddenly change speed or direction for whatever reason, how would you know if it would be safe to make that action if surrounded by traffic in busy roads, or if you were in a highly pedestrianised area?

The necessity for “mirrors before doing anything different” now starts to become clearer. A driver must check its safe at the rear and rear-sides of his vehicle before performing an action which may cause another driver to change their speed or direction. To do anything otherwise could be a fatal error on the behalf of the driver, I’m sure a consequence many of us would rather we didn’t have to live with.

Signal
It is true that with plenty of practice and experience a driver can start to understand subtle body language of other vehicles and their intended movements. To the novice driver these clues are harder to detect and of course some new drivers may not be interested at all.
A failure to provide correct signalling can cause other road users to miss opportunities, or make a move which could in turn help you, as a road user.
Signalling incorrectly may confuse or mislead other road users to think you are performing a different action from the one you may actually be doing. This could be even more dangerous. For example, if you were to signal before a side road on the left, but have intention to turn left but to stop on the left after the junction, an awaiting driver trying to pull out of the junction may believe you are turning left and perceive that as an opportunity to pull out and make progress, the driver may then pull out in front of you which could result in a collision. Something which could have been avoided had the signal not been misleading.

Manoeuvre
A Manoeuvre is an action, or a change of speed or direction. This could be turning left like the previous anecdote or overtaking on a dual carriageway. If you were to reverse park, the MSM routine is still necessary as observations are necessary, a reverse gear will activate reversing lights (signal) and it will be a manoeuvre to park.

The motion of mirrors, signal, and manoeuvre is a routine. It’s simply emphasising the necessity of checking, looking and planning, communicating, and making a move that as a driver you understand to be fully safe, and will be one least likely to cause other road users to change speed or direction.

“This article may be freely reprinted or distributed in its entirety in any e-zine, newsletter, blog or website. The author’s name Drivers Scotland, and website link www.driversscotland.co.uk must remain intact and be included with every reproduction.”

I started learning with Stuart having had little previous driving experience, and he was fantastic. Really put me at ease, and made driving fun as well as being a really good teacher. I felt prepared for driving in the real world, not just to pass my test, and after passing first time I am now a confident and careful driver. I also loved the car!

(Reproduced with kind permission from Nick Keeble, posted in Google Maps, Review Date: 12 Apr 2011)

The Left Reverse

Traditionally the left reverse as a manoeuvre, is usually done in larger vehicles because the “turning circle” (how tightly a vehicle can turn) in larger vehicles can be considerably bigger than that of smaller vehicles. As the driving licence can allow you to drive larger vehicles, the left reverse is a manoeuvre the driver will have to learn for the driving test.

The approach: As you approach a junction on your left, be sure to spend a little time assessing the shape and size of the corner. As you will have to reverse around this bend, it will be necessary to understand its contour. Investigate the new road on your left; look for obstructions, pedestrians, poor road surfacing, drains or anything which may cause you to change speed or direction. At this point it will be necessary to use your mirrors before pulling over to the side of the road after the junction, as other road users may be following it will be necessary to let them know of your intention.

The start position: When pulling over to the side, look for something which may act as a vertical representation of a “point of turn”. This will become clear shortly. The distance from the kerb when stopped should be 30 to 45 centimetres, approximately two feet. Ensure the vehicle has stopped parallel and with straight wheels and no further than a couple of car lengths from the corner you intend to reverse around. The purpose of this position will be to allow yourself a little “manoeuvrability room” beside the kerb, and while you are getting ready to reverse it allows clearance and visibility for anyone approaching the junction to safely emerge.

The reverse: After carrying out your moving off routine and knowing it’s safe to reverse, move slowly while maintaining a parallel position to the kerb until you reach the “point of turn” we mentioned earlier. This is usually when the back, nearside wheel, is beside the last straight kerbstone. We looked earlier for something which would represent a vertical point of turn? This is because it’s easier to see through the window at such, than it is to use the nearside mirror to see the kerb.

The turn: At this point we now have to turn the steering wheel to the left, to follow the curve of the kerb. Unfortunately, all corners are a different shape and size. This means the amount of steering required varies from corner to corner. The idea is to remain parallel as you follow the curve of the kerb. Some corners will require a lot of steering, some only a little. Use all round observations all of the time, move slowly, add the steering gradually as you go while checking the nearside mirror, over the shoulders, and through the rear window. Observing like this will allow you to fill in the gaps in your knowledge of your positioning, and other road users. Think 360 degrees! If you get closer to the kerb and you risk striking the kerb, you will need to pull away. Do the same as you would for driving forwards and steer to the right. If you are drifting away from the kerb and you need to get closer, steer towards the kerb.

Ingravesco parallel: Becoming parallel; unfortunately this is where many candidates fail the driving test. When you have reached that point that looks like you are driving “straight out” of the junction, this is the time to straighten the wheels. When you observe through the rear window, the kerb should be visible and you will look like you are reversing straight into this new road. Once you have straightened the wheels, it should be easy to maintain the position while reversing for a reasonable distance. This could be two or three car lengths to create  a little space in front of you, allowing other vehicles to approach and turn at the junction.

Corrections: If it’s necessary to make corrections, for example the vehicle is continuing to drift towards, or away from the kerb as you reverse, it will be necessary to alter the steering. This can be done easily. If the vehicle is straying away from the kerb and it’s necessary to get closer, try turning the steering wheel a quarter turn only (15 minutes of turn) to the left, and maintaining that hold of the wheel until the vehicle is closer, or just parallel.  If getting further away is necessary, apply a quarter turn the other way, the right, and hold the position of the steering wheel until the vehicle is parallel, then return the steering wheel to a centre position. In some cases you may need to double the quarter turn (a half circle or 30 minutes of turn) to return to a parallel position as the vehicle may be angled awkwardly, and then return the wheel to straight afterwards.

The general point here is that “assigning” a “set amount” of steering allows you to remember where the direction of the wheels is more easily, and the correction is simpler. This manoeuvre is easier than it sounds, it will take a little practice which is always fun, and invariably good results are found with good observations and patience.

“This article may be freely reprinted or distributed in its entirety in any e-zine, newsletter, blog or website. The author’s name Drivers Scotland, and website link www.driversscotland.co.uk must remain intact and be included with every reproduction.”

To effectively parallel park you must be aware of how the vehicle will operate. As reversing motion is different from forward motion, it will require greater thought and skill than forward travel.

Assessment
As the driver is approaching a space or an area to reverse park into, assess as to the condition and size of the space available. Pick out the kerb line and understand the road surface including the camber, this will have an effect later. Observe for potholes, drains and other problems.

The reverse
Use a starting position approximately a doors length (one metre) from the vehicle you start next to; this other vehicle will be referred to as the target vehicle. Start at a side-by-side position.

Once stopped and have selected reverse gear, find the biting point of the clutch and use all round observations, usually from right to left. This means a rear window observation in the direction of travel is the final checking point. Reverse slowly until the tail end of the vehicle is beside the far away end of the target vehicle, viewable through the rear passenger side window. Continue to observe all around the vehicle while moving slowly to this point.

The pitch
When you are side-by-side turn the steering wheel briskly to the left, the vehicle will move outwards to the side and the aim is to eventually adopt a 45 degree position, or similar. This can be likened to a 2 o’clock position. It is important to check over your shoulder to where the traffic would pass by you. The vehicle nose will swing out, which could be dangerous for others.

If you use a set amount of steering, this will mean it’s easier to remember how much you’ve used, and how much to take off later. It will be necessary to check all around during this movement as vehicles approaching from other areas have priority.

A 45 degree angle or similar can be measured time after time by using something that’s a “fixed” something on the side of the car, a door handle or a wheel arch can usually “appear” to sit above the kerb line in the nearside mirror; this is purely an example. Other references include seeing a “pizza slice” shape of the tarmac between the car and the kerb (imagine cutting yourself the same size every time), again in the nearside mirror. The purpose of referencing like this is to eliminate the guesswork. To take up a 45 degree position again and again will be easier with this sort of referencing.

The fix
Once you have reached a correct angle, it will be necessary to then alter this to align the vehicle parallel to the kerb. If you remember we used a set amount of steering to the left to get to this position. It will now be necessary to change, or undo this set amount of steering to the opposite direction. This will change the wheels from the left to the right. This may be two or more full revolution turns of the wheel.
At this point due to a roads camber, the vehicle may roll towards the pavement. It will be necessary to control the speed immediately to avoid further problems. Continue to observe all around. The more “information” you observe, the greater the chance you have in succeeding with accurate parallel parking. This manoeuvre requires practice. Parallel parking is a bit of an art.

Most people fail to park properly usually because their speed is too fast, their steering is incorrect or observations are not good enough to understand where the vehicle needs to be.

The alignment
Moving from the 45 degree position to a parallel point requires slow deliberate care. While using the observations from all around, line up the vehicle parallel to the kerb using the steering. The objective will be to parallel the wheels when the car is parallel, i.e. so the vehicle finishes parallel and the wheels are parallel at the same time. To do this correctly, move slowly, assessing every inch of travel as you proceed to get closer the kerb. Unwind the steering from the right as you approach the kerb. Until you are practiced at this manoeuvre, it will be a bigger necessity to take your time and practice in quiet places and situations.
Observations into the nearside mirror can help with positioning, as can observing through the front and rear windscreen to “line up” the vehicle with the one at the front, or behind.
When you have reached a parallel point, straighten the vehicle wheels. This will ensure you look parked and not about to move off and will keep your tyres free from external dangers.

Points to note

Remember the camber may influence the speed of the car as you manoeuvre into the space. Use the gravity by pushing the clutch down and letting the vehicle roll, control the speed with the braking. Continue to observe fully and give way where necessary to the road users.
In the UK driving test, the spaces available to park within is two of your own vehicle lengths. Travel no further back than is necessary.
If you need to alter the vehicle position to fix the parking at any point, it will be ok to move forward and alter the position.

“This article may be freely reprinted or distributed in its entirety in any e-zine, newsletter, blog or website. The author’s name Drivers Scotland, and website link www.driversscotland.co.uk must remain intact and be included with every reproduction.”

“I passed my test with Drivers Scotland last week and I couldn’t be happier. I’ve failed a few times with other driving schools and my instructor was brilliant at helping me with my anxiety about driving. Drivers Scotland is markedly different to other schools I have used. The approach is very professional, the lessons are well structured and the car is great quality (this makes more of a difference than you might think). My instructor was brilliant at taking the time to understand my weaknesses and even wrote notes for me to read at home to help me with my manoeuvres! Drivers Scotland comes highly recommended!”
Ruth, RBS

(Reproduced with kind permission from Ruth Lanning, posted in Google Maps, Review Date: 26 Mar 2011)

P.O.M.

This is a routine many driving instructors use.
The purpose of this practice is to provide a set, repeatable, fail safe method to move from a stationary position at the side of the road to join into the flow of traffic. Once you have learnt this routine, repeat it again and again.

P means preparation: The act of getting the car ready.
O means observation: The act of looking to ensure it’s safe to move off.
M means manoeuvre: The act of moving off.

Preparation can use the following actions.
Clutch down and then select first gear. Once done, squeeze a little gas to create a little power. When these two steps have been done it will be necessary to lift the clutch slowly and smoothly, until you feel the “biting point”. At the biting point it will be necessary to keep your feet still at this moment as continuing to lift the clutch will mean the car will continue to move forward. We aren’t ready to do that yet.
It’s worth noting at this point if the road is not safe to move off; the clutch should be lowered to the floor a little more to “ease off” the biting point. Using the biting point for extended periods of time will damage and prematurely wear the clutch. Moving the clutch to a little below the biting point will mean the bite can be found more quickly and thus the driver will be able to move off promptly when required.

Observation is necessary to ensure its safe to move off into the flow of traffic. A driver should perform a 360 degree check to learn of the surrounding circumstances. It is usually best to start from the least dangerous side of the vehicle, usually the pavement side, and bring the observations around the vehicle utilising all windows and all mirrors. The observations will therefore finish at the most dangerous side of the vehicle; usually the side traffic will be passing. This is necessary to take into account for the speed of traffic, and movements of pedestrians.

Manoeuvre is the act of getting the vehicle on the move. Once the driver is sure it’s safe to move, release the handbrake and the vehicle should move as the biting point was found during preparation. If you dipped a little below the biting point as suggested earlier, then you will need to find that again before releasing the handbrake. Squeeze a little extra gas and bring the vehicle up to the correct road speeds if it is safe to do so continuing to release the clutch smoothly.

Why do we do this?
If for example the driver observes first and sees an opportunity to go, the driver will not be ready as preparation has not been sought.
If the driver releases the handbrake before observing and preparation, the vehicle will not move and may actually roll into a problem if the vehicle is parked on a gradient.

Therefore, really the best way to be prompt when moving off is to follow the POM routine.
With practice it can be performed in a few seconds.

“This article may be freely reprinted or distributed in its entirety in any e-zine, newsletter, blog or website. The author’s name Drivers Scotland, and website link www.driversscotland.co.uk must remain intact and be included with every reproduction.”

Dual Carriageways

Observation
Dual carriageways are designed to be easy to drive on.
They require minimum effort, and provide the driver with the visual ability to see great distances. They can however be boring with the constant speeds and a view that’s relatively unchanging, little steering or gear changing and if you have cruise control on your vehicle, there’s little else for your “busy foot” to do.
This means it’s easier for your mind to wander.
So to keep your mind on the drive it’s best to plan a route, anticipate the traffic movements and be super-observant while maintaining the constant checks on speeds and positions of vehicles to the front and the rear. All of this of course while driving smoothly and progressively.

Lane Discipline
As a driver, we should be driving in the left hand lane in the UK. However it is advisable not to become too pressured about this and spend your motorway journeys constantly hopping from lane to lane, adding to your work and confusing other drivers. But it’s not OK to stubbornly sit in the overtaking lane. Constantly observing the behaviour of vehicles and those around them will allow you to predict situations better. Return to the left when it is safe to do so, make use of a shoulder check when swapping from lane to lane and use signals where appropriate, maintaining the use of a signal until fully moved from one lane to another.

Speed
The UK limit for speed in a car is 70mph and as a driver you should always aim to drive at an appropriate speed for the conditions. 70mph is not a target, just the maximum allowable for that type of road. On a motorway in modern cars where it’s quiet and smooth, it is easy for your speed to creep up unawares. Make use of your cruise control if you have it, or regularly check your speedometer. This is how “motorway madness” or “highway hypnosis” occurs, as pretty soon 70mph can feel like 40mph and the temptation will be to go faster to compensate for the “slow feeling”.

Distances
Keeping your distance increases your view around the vehicle in front, provides extra thinking and braking distance. When travelling behind other vehicles follow the two second rule, staying two seconds behind the vehicle in front. To assess the distance while travelling, wait until the vehicle in front passes a stationary object, a road sign, a shadow or a change in road surface and say out loud “Only a fool breaks the two second rule”. If you cannot finish saying the phrase before you pass the same stationary object, you are too close. Drop back a little and try it again. On wet roads it will be necessary to double that distance to four seconds. To check this, say “Only a fool breaks the two second rule; if it’s wet on the floor, double the score”.
Tailgating is the practice of someone following your vehicle too closely. It is a dangerous practice. Let other vehicles pass if they continue to do so. It will be easier to keep an eye on them.

Courtesy
Driving on the dual carriageways use a higher speed limit, because of this it’ll be necessary to be more courteous. Try not to brake in a way which will surprise the driver behind and in urgent situations use the hazard warning lights to alert the vehicles behind.
When approaching and passing slip roads, observe the flow of traffic front and rear and consider moving to lane two, the overtaking lane. This will help vehicles merge and avoid being impeded. Lorry drivers will be especially appreciative of your courtesy considering the size and weight of their vehicles.
Use mirrors with care, when required, signal early and allow a couple of flashes of the indicator before moving to the overtaking lane. Maintain the signal and move gradually while changing lanes, once fully in your new lane, cancel the signal. This will give other road users time to react and plan accordingly. Ensure you don’t compromise your safe following distance while overtaking. Be aware of blind spots before changing lane. The Highway Code requests you perform a shoulder check before changing lanes. Also ensure you don’t cut in on the vehicle you have just overtaken.

Drive courteously and in a planned way.

“This article may be freely reprinted or distributed in its entirety in any e-zine, newsletter, blog or website. The author’s name Drivers Scotland, and website link www.driversscotland.co.uk must remain intact and be included with every reproduction.”

“Not many people I know really look forward to driving lessons, they seem to find them pretty daunting but I loved mine! They were always really productive and all manoeuvres were taught until perfect. I really liked that I did all the driving because I learnt methods properly and adapted them slightly to suit. I would definitely recommend Stuart because he’s so friendly and fun. I passed my test first time with 3 minors Woop Remember I CAN!!.. Miss him loads.. ”

(Reproduced with kind permission from Cara Saove, posted in Touchlocal.com, Review Date: 24/10/2010)

Turn in the road

Many  drivers will think of the turn in the road as a three point turn and while this may be true, for the purposes of the driving test and good driving practice it is called a “turn in the road”.

The reason for this is simple, your examiner will not wish to confuse and mislead you into believing that you must complete this exercise in three moves. After all, if you can do a five point turn or complete a U turn then you will have succeeded in the examiners request.

As for life before and after the driving test then the following explanation can help you achieve a turn in the road with the fewest movements.

Essentially, the first action here and worth remembering, is attempting a U-turn.
A candidate on driving test will not be given a road wide enough to do a U-turn, there are also only a few of them about, therefore it will be necessary to incorporate reversing in the majority of situations encountered.

It would be wise to select a suitable side road to accomplish this as manoeuvring on a main road is not only tricky, but more dangerous and an interruption for other road users.

After getting the vehicle ready and looking around to make sure it’s safe, use minimal clutch control to move very slowly. Move about 15 to 30cm or so to set the vehicle in motion very slowly. Once moving, briskly turn the steering wheel to the right, to its end; you should only be a 30 to 60cm distance from the kerb by the time after having completed this initial movement of steering. As you progress across the road to its crown (the high point) continue to check left, and right, and  in the direction of travel until you are over the crown of the road and probably at least half the way over the other side of the road. Gravity may have an effect upon the vehicle at this point. If the vehicle rolls down the camber (the slope of the road surface) utilise the gravity by putting the clutch down and feather the braking to control the speed.

When the vehicle is close the kerb at the other side and about 30cm before stopping, briskly change the steering wheel fully from the right to the left, and then stop.  This is called counter steering; there are many other terms, anti-lock is also a well known term. This should be done over the shortest distance possible. The purpose of this is to change the direction of the wheels only and not to change the position of the car. When the vehicle has stopped it should not be overhanging the kerb with the front of the car. Some vehicles cannot cope with this; kerbs can be high and some vehicles very low. The main reason for this separation distance is not to impose upon the pedestrian space, the pavement. Maintain a distance of about 30 to 60cm from the kerb when the vehicle has finally stopped.

Once stopped, engage the handbrake to secure the vehicle, select the reverse gear and find the biting point (tail end of the car will rise a little). Securing the vehicle ensures the driver can use the gas and the clutch without the vehicle rolling out of their control while doing so, if there is a kerb this could spell disaster.

Once the vehicle is ready again, observe right, left, and behind, do this at least twice and release the handbrake slowly to check the direction of the vehicle movement. If the vehicle goes in the correct direction, release the handbrake fully and continue to reverse. Continue to keep checking right, left and behind continually for as long as reversing continues. If the driver didn’t manage to do the entire counter steer before stopping last time, this will be the time to finish it and reverse slowly across the road.

As reversing should not be done for any longer than is necessary, also keep an eye open for enough space in front of the vehicle to finish the manoeuvre. When there is enough room to complete this turn in the road, counter steer again to the right briskly and then stop. This will face the steering wheels in a new direction, do this over the shortest distance possible again and secure the car again with the handbrake when the vehicle has stopped. It will now be possible to engage first gear and find the biting point as normal. Observe fully to make sure it will be safe to move off safely in the direction to go to. If it’s clear, release the handbrake slowly to check the vehicles direction and if it’s correct, fully release the handbrake and slowly manoeuvre forwards.

Points to note
If the road is especially narrow and will require more than three movements to complete, this method can be repeated over and over until completed, thus creating what is known as the five or  seven point turn.

“This article may be freely reprinted or distributed in its entirety in any e-zine, newsletter, blog or website. The author’s name Drivers Scotland, and website link www.driversscotland.co.uk must remain intact and be included with every reproduction.”

Having spent a few months learning to drive, chatting with family, friends and your driving instructor about which car you would like, now may be the exciting time spend your hard earned money to purchase a vehicle.

Here are some top tips on buying your first car to give you the desired freedom you’ve worked so hard for!

Establish a budget

You must establish a budget for your first car, and stick to it.

Do the homework with your numbers and understand how much you can afford.

This will be key to enjoying the vehicle you will purchase.

It may become a problem when you stretch your budget too far and you will be worried about payments, if you cannot make them the vehicle could be repossessed, and of course what will happen should the vehicle need maintenance?

There are literally hundreds of models to choose from in a variety of colours shapes and sizes so you need not concern yourself with buying that one particular model that’s on your doorstep.

Finance options are usually available from dealers making more expensive cars more affordable, be very aware of what you are paying for and always ask for as many extras as possible. When buying from a private seller you can get finance through your bank or another loan agent.

Take your time

Go to several dealers large and small, private traders and any friends you may know selling what you may be looking for. Get a feel for many vehicles by sitting in them, doing the cockpit drill and working the foot pedals. Learning the controls can help you associate with the vehicle and see if it’s the correct one for you.

By using your imagination and looking inside and out, you may find it’s perfect, or nothing at all like it. Spending the time now will mean you will not regret a decision later on.

The Condition

Sometimes vehicles are just shiny but this does not mean it will be a good buy. To the untrained eye at this point, it will be necessary to have some kind of knowledgeable individual with you to help. The bodywork should be reasonably clean and sound and all panels should have the same size gapping between them, if not, there may have been a replacement panel and that could be a sign of a bigger problem. The panels should also be straight and smooth and the paint should not only match colour, but also texture all over the vehicle.  Beware, a new coat of paint could hide a thousand sins. The tyres should be in good condition, if not, the dealer may replace them as part of the sale. Check all the lights, including the dashboard lights to see if any remain on when they shouldn’t.

Get a good look under the vehicle to spot for rust, holes in the floor, exhaust problems and general wear and tear. Open the bonnet and look for fluid spills, loose wires, check the piping and general tidiness. If you can see any of the framework of the vehicle, continue to look for respraying, repair or welding work as this may display signs of accident damage and could be worth staying away from. Again, a trained or experienced eye will help here.

Test driving

A reputable dealer will allow you to test drive the vehicle, not drive it for you. Preferably you will get to start the engine from cold, meaning you will see how it performs first thing in the morning when you need it most, what kind of exhaust fumes exist, normal fumes are white and smokey, black or blue could indicate problems. How long it takes to warm up? Don’t rev the engine, let it idle for a few seconds and listen to how it sounds. If you are happy, then take it for a drive. You should incorporate a few things into the test drive. Stop and start a few times at the side of the road (this can also help if you are feeling nervous). Use speed zones higher than 30mph although wait for the car to be warm before doing any dual carriageway or 60mph zones if you can. Do a manoeuvre or two, get the hang of the vehicle, the weight, the size, the shape, the sounds and the feel. Do a brake test like an emergency stop, the vehicle should stop in straight line and not pull to one side, brakes should not feel spongy or slack. Remember to tell your passengers what you will be doing, or they may be in for a surprise.

Negotiate

If you like the vehicle you have chosen, the negotiation is usually next. Always feel impartial at this point. The dealer will be keen to sell that car, as keen as you are to buy it, the dealer may be keener. You can use this to your advantage. Haggle on price and ask for extras, the first thing you should ask for is a warranty, something which will protect you in a failure of the vehicle. Dealers usually provide a warranty in some form, sometimes only for a few months, the more you spend the longer they will want to guarantee the vehicle. Buying privately does not usually provide you with such peace of mind. Big dealers will be keen to add all sorts of extras, unfortunately for a cost. Be careful about your needs and be clear about any jargon being used. It is imperative at this point you understand exactly what you are paying for. If the deal feels uncertain or intuition tells you something isn’t right, politely tell the sales person you need to think a little longer and walk away from the deal. There will be another vehicle of the same make and colour elsewhere and you may also get a better deal elsewhere at a later date, failing that, the same dealer may come back to you with an improved offer more to your liking.

Dealers, Traders and Auctions.

Big dealers of brand names have people pouring through their doors day in day out, the best advice would be to search in forums and find which dealer will serve you better. As competition is fierce, all traders are increasingly trying to provide more and more to win your custom. Searching the internet will find you an amazing deal, but word of mouth can be even more valuable. Private traders may have to work harder to win your business but may not be able to offer the bigger discounts sometimes offered by mainstream manufacturers. It is not always about money in the buying world and the smaller trader may have something of greater value, even if it is just a great reputation and great rapport.

Auctions require a little more attention, visit as a spectator first to see what happens. It is probably the riskiest way of buying a vehicle. Your usual legal rights may not apply if the seller issues a disclaimer, such as the term ‘sold as seen’, which excludes all or some of those rights. Read the auctioneer’s conditions of business carefully to check whether this is the case. Always take someone with you who knows about vehicles and auctions as their advice will be more than valuable when the moment comes to bid and purchase. It is possible to get a really good deal at an auction so do the homework.

Points to note.

Once you have decided on the model of car and your budget, check out the car insurance for your chosen vehicle before you part with your money. Services are also available from the AA and the RAC to ensure that when purchasing a vehicle you don’t buy a banger from a private trader. These individuals will charge a fee for giving the car a thorough check inside and out, including the paperwork, and may help you to make a decision. As the fee is likely to be £100 or more, make sure you use this service when you have decided on a final vehicle for purchase.

“This article may be freely reprinted or distributed in its entirety in any e-zine, newsletter, blog or website. The author’s name Drivers Scotland, and website link www.driversscotland.co.uk must remain intact and be included with every reproduction.”

The UK driving test has seen changes over the last few years, one of them the addition of the theory test. This has been designed in two parts to create a better level of awareness, and also to test your ability to predict hazards. New drivers are disproportionately involved in accidents, especially in the first few months having recently passed a driving test. It has been proven that drivers who have taken hazard perception test training have much better hazard test skills.

Part one of the theory test is a multiple choice question paper followed by part two, a hazard perception test. All the materials you will need to study for the tests are in the DSA books (available here) The Highway Code, Know you Traffic Signs and The Official DSA Guide to Driving – the essential skills.

The theory test question paper

The question paper at the moment consists of 50 questions with a current pass mark of 43, there is a maximum of 57 minutes to be able to answer these questions.
The main topics include:

Alertness and attention when you’re driving

Your attitude towards other road users

Safety and your vehicle

Safety margins and how they can be affected by different weather and road conditions

Judgement and hazard perception

Dealing with vulnerable road users

Dealing with different types of vehicles

Handling of your vehicle in different conditions

Motorway rules

Rules of the road

Road and traffic signs

Documents needed for drivers and their vehicles

What to do in the event of an accident

Safety of loads

A sample question

Q. You are driving towards a zebra crossing. Pedestrians are waiting to cross.
You should:
(select one answer)

a   – slow down and be prepared to stop

b   – give way to the elderly and infirm only

c   – use your headlamps to indicate they can cross

d   – wave at them to cross the road

A. The correct answers is : a   – slow down and be prepared to stop (Highway Code and The official Guide to Driving – the essential skills)

Mock theory test question papers are available here.

Hazard Perception

Part two of the theory test involves ‘hazard perception’ where the candidate is presented with videos on a computer screen.
There are 14 videos with 15 identifiable hazards. This is to ensure you watch the video throughout, as hazards may well appear at any time in a real-world situation. A maximum of five points can be scored by ‘spotting’ the hazard as early as possible in each clip. A late or delayed response will result in a lower score being achieved.
Hazards depicted are those that would require you to respond as a driver. In other words, as a driver you will be changing speed or direction, or be taking take some other form of action.

This section of the test lasts about 20 minutes and the pass mark is currently 44 out of a possible 75. The results are available at the test centre, usually immediately after finishing the test, usually within half an hour.

This video will provide some of the finer points involved with the hazard perception test.

“This article may be freely reprinted or distributed in its entirety in any e-zine, newsletter, blog or website. The author’s name Drivers Scotland, and website link www.driversscotland.co.uk must remain intact and be included with every reproduction.”

When learning to drive, the ability to corner well can take a good degree of practice.

The aim: To help you understand how to corner better and more safely, before and after your driving lessons.
A car is most stable when travelling in a straight line on a level surface and at a constant speed. Cornering is the manoeuvre which causes the biggest problems, particularly on roads you may encounter  in the Scottish Borders and Highlands. The best way of knowing if you are about to encounter windy roads (if the weather is good) is to look out for bikers, or get to know where the great biking roads are. Why? Bikers love the bends and the “twisties”.

For this we need to look at several elements. The approach to the corner, the view we have going around the corner, the speed necessary for the shape and bend involved and how to exit the corner in a safe and controlled manner.

The approach: As you approach a bend, look to gather as much information about the severity of the bend, its levels and surface as is possible. Scan and plan with your observations, this is better than staring into the corner and hoping for the best. Using your observational skills will give you the clues to where the road is going and how tight the bend is. (Establish also what it is that limits or restricts your view). Look at the road signs and road markings, the more “information” there is will mean the bend is tighter and more dangerous. Use the natural landscape if at all possible, a line of roadside trees or telegraph poles and wires. Also identify the most amount of distance whenever you get a chance to see the roads ahead. Individually these things can help, but hand in hand they will really help you to anticipate and plan for the bend.

Position: Your road position will determine how much you can see on the approach to, and when you enter a bend. The best position is one which will give the greatest view , this will depend on whether the bend is right or left handed.
For left hand bends, position closer to the centre line if there is one, however there an important rule to follow here “be prepared to sacrifice this position” as vehicles coming from the opposite direction may be cutting the corner. Positioning closer to the centre line will make your arc of turn safer as it is longer, and therefore the vehicle is more stable. Primarily though it is to maximise your view of the upcoming circumstances involved with the bend.
For right handed bends, position closer to the verge edge or kerb edge. Again, this opens the arc of turn out and thus increasing stability, but the view is dramatically increased into the curve or bend ahead.

The view: Advanced drivers use a term called the “limit point“.  It is the furthest point along the road to which you have an uninterrupted view of the road surface. On a level stretch of road this will be where the right-hand side of the road appears to merge with the left hand side of the road. This point of merging is known as the limit point. The distance between yourself and the limit point will determine how quickly you are able to negotiate the bend. If the limit point is stationary or moving back towards you, you will be travelling too fast. If it is moving away from you then you can think about accelerating to maintain a constant speed or more around the bend.
The limit point will also be an upcoming brow of hill. If there are landscape elements such as trees and fencing then this may shorten the distance to the limit point, we must remember these elements can cause blind spots which may hide other road users.

Exiting the corner: When the limit point them seems to “accelerate” away from you it may be time to increase the gas and make better progress according to the circumstances. The faster the limit point moves, the faster you may be able to accelerate. Always aim to get the widest view possible when doing this as other elements may influence your speed and position of your desired progress.

What to watch out for: The limit point tells you nothing about circumstances beyond what you can see. If you read the hedges rather then the kerbs or edges of the road, or if the verge changes width or doesn’t follow the contour of the road then you may believe the bend is more open or easier than it really is.
The road elevation changes are more difficult to interpret. In other words the gradients of the road surfaces may make the bend appear sharper than it is, this may be ok. If it appears more open or easier than it actually is then your approach may be too fast.
Cornering, limit point analysis and using the environment all take practice so it’s best to approach this practice with caution. Use a little less speed until you are comfortable with the techniques.

Remember: You will be unaware of what will be beyond the limit point. Concentrating so much on this limit point will lead to whats known as “target fixation” (fixating on a single point). This may cause you to forget to look for the supporting evidence of where the road goes next, or you may simply fail to notice another slow moving road user just around the corner when you get there. It will also be important to factor in all the other elements of hazard perception such as driveways leading to houses set well back from the road edge, animal dropping and countryside gravels for example all present their own problems requiring manipulation of your vehicle.

In conclusion: Each corner is different and it takes practice to read the limit point and additional environment correctly. Learn the skills gradually and put them into practise on the road. When you learn the art of cornering you will have a greater sense of satisfaction and confidence, driving will be more enjoyable. You may even want to extend your driving licence to include motorcycling, as this will likely increase your awareness and enjoyment of cornering and the skills required.
Check out this cornering video, hopefully will help put these understandings into perspective.
Never drive faster than the speed that allows you to stop in the distance you can see to be clear!

“This article may be freely reprinted or distributed in its entirety in any e-zine, newsletter, blog or website. The author’s name Drivers Scotland, and website link www.driversscotland.co.uk must remain intact and be included with every reproduction.”

New Year’s resolution

Among the plethora of alternatives when choosing your New Year’s resolutions, undoubtedly one of the best and most life changing achievements would be to pass the driving test. This will allow you the freedom to travel in your own vehicle (which will be nice and warm in these winter months).

As the years go by, the driving test becomes more and more difficult and many feel things take longer to learn as we become older. There are over 35 million full licence holders in the U.K. If they can all pass the test, so can you!

When making any goals for New Year, the best thing to do is put it onto paper.
Write down the driving test goal many times; place it in obvious places around the house and at work. On the fridge door, the mirror you check yourself in before you leave the house, on your computer monitor at work, accessible places as reminders. This will jog your memory and help you plan that achievement for 2011.

Set a deadline to achieve this goal. Realistically if you have never driven before it will take you several months to pass your test.
Here is a guideline about the number of hours and how long it may take to pass. It will take approximately two hours per year of age.
If you take one hour per week it may take you up to one year to achieve a pass in your driving test.
If you take two hours per week then you may be able to achieve your test pass in about four to six months.
Semi intensive course are approximately four or more hours per week, this can shorten the time by half again.
An Intensive course can be as many as six hours a day. It is possible to learn in one full week. At six hours per day, this equates to thirty hours per week, although this is rarely done.

The following points are what your instructor may have in mind for you.

Make a plan for regular lessons. A semi or fully intensive course could be better for you. Doing this will allow you to structure your time; your achievements will come quickly and easily. It will also be easier to budget for lessons.

Pass the theory test (only lasts for two years, if you have not passed your driving test before that time, you will have to sit and pass your theory test again).

Book the driving test. When your instructor says you are ready to apply for your driving test, you should do so. Drivers cannot guarantee a car will be available for test if you go ahead and book without consent. Your instructor will take into account your lesson schedule and the waiting list for the driving tests.

Tell people about your goals. When you now mention to friends or family about passing your driving test in 2011, you may be given help or incentives to help you get there sooner. Maybe it’s your birthday soon, you could ask for a gift voucher to help you save a little more money, or send one to a friend to help them achieve their driving test goal as well.

All that remains is to enjoy 2011.
May the best of luck be with you for all your New Year resolutions?

“This article may be freely reprinted or distributed in its entirety in any e-zine, newsletter, blog or website. The author’s name Drivers Scotland, and website link www.driversscotland.co.uk must remain intact and be included with every reproduction.”